Mission Santa Cruz
1830
– The Journey Continues
It
was not easy to depart for the remainder of the journey. James spent
two days doing very little beyond going out with the Carlita, letting
Little Bear act as captain. He could not shake off the thought that
if he had been there, his father would not have gone out and would
still live.
“Did
your father, my brother, always complete every task he started?”
The
question from Jaime caught him by surprise. James thought the old man
slept in the rocker.
“Yes,
honored uncle. It he something he repeatedly told me to do.”
“Then,
namesake mine, why not do as he told you?”
James
told Teresa of the question and his determination to continue the
journey.
“We
can depart whenever you wish, marido.
Everything is prepared.”
James
shook his head in wonderment, holding his wife closer. She always
seemed to read his mind. Just
as father told me mother did to him.
They
rode directly to Rancho
Bolsa Nueva y Moro Cojo,
New Pocket and Lame Moor in English. The mayordomo
took them directly to the main building where Doña
Maria
Antonia Pico de
Castro welcomed them, giving Teresa a warm embrace when she
dismounted. She then turned to James, expressing her deep sorrow at
the passing of his father. “Don
Timoteo
was a great man and we all owe he and your uncle a great deal.”
She
knew both of them from when her deceased husband had been alcalde
and then juez
at Monte
Rey.
The
ranch was not large, most of the land made up of swamps and tidal
basins. Both knew that part of the name came from her husband's
favorite black horse that became lame and had to be put to sleep.
In
spite of Doña Maria's insistence, they departed for their next goal,
el
Rancho Bolsa de San Cayetano,
or Saint Cayetano's Pocket as it was a piece of land with el
Bahia de Monte Rey
on one side and a huge slough on the other. They did not expect to
see the owner, Don
José de Jesús Vallejo, as he spent most of his time at Pueblo
San José.
The grant was not profitable as there was little space to raise more
than a few head of horses and cattle.
Their
third stop was at Rancho
Vega del Rio del Pajaro,
or Meadow Along the Bird River. Again, the owner, Don
Antonio Maria Castro, was not present, being in Monte
Rey
at his small hacienda.
However, his daughter, Maria Antonia was there as she never liked
the town and preferred the solitude of the ranch. Teresa had told
James she had many suitors, most of them seeking to gain the lands
they knew her father would pass to her. The smallest of the three, it
was little more than a place to pasture her father's horses.
Traveling
due east through the Gavilan Mountains took them to the valley where
el
Misión San Juan Bautista
spread out. They knew that Corporal Juan Ballesteros and five private
soldiers had built the original chapel and simple jacals
for themselves and the friars they knew would soon arrive. Many
Mutsun and Yokuts were there to help, looking forward to the arrival
of the padres.
From a distance, they saw the chapel to be much larger than any of
the others they had visited. Padre
de
la Cuesta
came out to greet them, the years and worries wearing heavily upon
his shoulders. He blessed them and, at their request, had a disciple
take them to the stables.
When
they responded to the Vesper bells, both James and Teresa gazed
around at the interior, surprised it was so big that it contained
three rows of pews. The reredos behind the altar contained the
statues of Saint John the Baptist and five others. Both knew that the
American who had jumped ship in Monte
Rey,
John Doak, had pained them in exchange for room and board. Two small
altars at both sides were for those seeking the intervention of The
Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph. At the back was a choir loft already
filled with disciples who had learned the hymnal responses from
Reverend Father Tápis
who was buried under the floor of the sacristy. Their perfect harmony
brought smiles to the faces of James and Teresa as they always loved
to hear the perfect harmony of disciples' voices who had no idea what
written music was about.
Padre
de la Cuesta
beckoned them to join him in the friar's garden, so they made their
way there, surprised at the number of cats curled up or pruning
themselves.
“Mice,
rats, moles, and rabbits have become a serious problem, my children.
They came from those Padre
Uria raised and are most effective in keeping the pests away.”
James
wondered if they might also roam into the chaparral
and
woodlands, there breeding more of their kind. They had seen several
during their journey from Monte
Rey.
They
then made their way to the communal dining area, amazed at how huge
it was. James mentally counted the tables multiplying by the number
seated at each. “There must be nearly a thousand disciples here, mi
esposa.”
Teresa
nodded, having come to the same conclusion.
Having
seen the small pueblo
where the disciple families lived, the communal gathering surprised
them. They had seen more than twenty adobe
structures, along with many more jacals
and several smaller rancherias
not far away. The absence of Corporal Ballesteros surprised them. The
soldier who had, in effect, founded the mission along with five of
his fellow leatherjacket soldiers, had retired in the area. They also
wondered where John Doak was. Juan, as he was baptized, had married a
local Ohlone girl and had a small plot of land. His not being there
was explained by the mayordomo.
“Don
Juan is often called away to the other missions to help. I think this
time he has gone to Misión
San José.”
The
mayordomo
attached
himself to them, proudly telling them about the mission. “You both
know the effort it takes
to make abode
bricks. Our disciples care not in their desire that this House of God
become a pearl for Him to smile down upon.” He pointed to the
brick-walled
corrals, the granary, a huge kiln for tiles, and weaving rooms. The
arched walkway on the in- and outside of the mission walls provided
shaded access for those days when the sun strongly beat down upon the
mission.
“We
are most fortunate in that our sons and daughters work diligently in
the gardens and fields and we produce more than enough to feed us and
to send surplus to the presidios
del Monte Rey y San Francisco.
That
was not news to James and Teresa.
“We
have large herds of cattle I have heard Padre
de
la Cuesta
indicate
them
as more than six thousand and five hundred. We also have five hundred
breeding mares and another two hundred and fifty tame and broken
stallions.” He also pointed out there were more than thirty mules,
using his opened fingers to show the number. “There is a rancho
there for sheep,” he said, pointing to the east. We have others
there, and there, and there,” pointing northeast, north-northeast,
and due north.
“And
our children led us to deposits of pitch and sulfur, the devil's
rock.”
They
had watched the friar join them.
“And,
as at Misión
San Miguel,
we found hot and cold springs heavy with sulfur.” He paused and
added, “That is the extent of our land and grants were given for
Rancho
de las Animas y Rancho de Solis.
That was said without rancor as José Castro had served well and
deserved them for his
service. The
friar
then pointed in the direction of the ranches and told them they
obtained good timber from that area. “We also have another rancho
for sheep about three leagues west-northwest of here. And that peak
there to the south is Mount Gavilan. It is from springs there that we
gain the water to irrigate and gardens, vineyards, and cornfield.”
They
heard the sorrow in the friar's voice as he conducted the tour. They
did not have to ask, knowing that the pending secularization weighed
heavily upon his shoulders. The mayordomo
was no less sad as he too sensed
what little future lay ahead of him and his fellow disciples.
*****
They
visited Ranchos
San Ysidro, Las Animas, y Solis
the next morning after leaving the mission. Juan Ortega, the grandson
of Captain Ortega, welcomed
them at Rancho
San Ysidro,
knowing who they were and expressing his sorrow at the passing of
James' illustrious father.
Don
José Mariano Castro was in residence at Rancho
las Animas
or la
Poza de Carnedero
named
for
the large puddle of tar not far from the hacienda.
While he showed them great courtesy, they had no doubt as to his
feelings about a half-breed and a full-blooded Indians.
They also sensed his manner of superiority that spoke of his
political intrigues. And, one of Don
José's sons was at Rancho
Solis,
simply giving them what little courtesy he could according to his
personal rules of comportment.
“I
feel that Castro and members of his family will have a great deal to
do when secularization finally comes about.”
“And
he will not be friendly to the needs of the disciples,” Teresa
responded. “He appears as greedy for land as the Picos.”
They
were riding through the steep hills westward from el
Camino Real
to reach Misión
Santa Cruz.
Although James had frequented it when delivering loads of fish, he
wanted to visit it with Teresa in a different manner.
“There
are no loose herds of cattle here. Or signs of vaqueros.”
James
had noticed the same thing. Not even a few stray horses were to be
seen. “Perhaps it is the lazy cholos
of Villa
Branciforte
who are taking them for themselves.”
They
came upon Willow Place by early afternoon and could not but accept
the pleas for them staying to
sup with them.
“You
can always continue on to the mission tomorrow,” Antonio German,
the grandson of the founder, told them. “You always but stop to
deliver parts of your catch and never give us the opportunity to show
our appreciation for that.”
Instead
of a disorderly gathering of structures, el
Lugar del Sauces
followed the reglamentos
Governor Fages had been so determined to see followed. The central
plaza
had a communal fountain with the small chapel facing east for
visiting friars. Another brick structure was for the pueblos
mayor and council, while the other two held a cantina
and some shops. Streets radiated from the center, each plot of land
of uniform size. James and Teresa knew that farming and other plots
had been equally divided among the original settlers and those Ohlone
who had come to live with the Spaniards.
It
took a strenuous effort to be permitted to settle down for the night
in one of the barns.
*****
They
smelled Villa
Branciforte
before seeing it. All gatherings of people were filled with smells of
human beings and the waste they created. Following the example of the
local Gentiles however, the newcomers had tried to be more sanitary,
avoiding tossing their slops into the streets as in Europe. And
animals were kept to dispose of much of that waste - goats, pigs, and
chickens among them. And, most people took their personal waste to
mulch pits for fertilizing fields and gardens.
“They
are not only lazy and irreverent but puercos
y vagoavagas.”
“Please
do not insult pigs, mi
marido.
You know they are clean animals, preferring to bathe in water than
not.”
James
could not disagree.
The
vast majority of the dwellings were makeshift and unfinished, little
or no organization to the so-called town.
However,
beyond the slum, scalloped hills and broad flats provided the setting
for Misión
la exaltación de la Santa Cruz,
not far from el
Rio San Lorenzo,
which provided plentiful water to irrigate the vineyards, orchards,
gardens, and fields. They could clearly see the stony beach upturned
edgewise upon which the sea roared into holes, breaking eternally,
wave after wave. Living in Carmel, the sea was part of them but the
particular force of those
waves made them catch their breaths.
James
had often visited the mission, so the small chapel and incomplete
compound did not surprise him. When the inhabitants of the Villa
had taken everything from the mission upon hearing of the approach of
pirates, those items had been lost forever and no matter of effort
had helped rebuild it.
Large
herds of livestock grazed in the flats and on the hillsides and James
knew flocks of sheep grazed further up the coast. Few disciples
appeared.
“They
go into the village and trade things for alcohol. Or they work hard
for the villagers, receiving nothing more than a flask of poorly
brewed rum or beer.”
Having
been informed of their arrival, Padre
Luis Gil came out to greet them, embracing James before blessing he
and Teresa. “I was only told you were away on a long voyage and
your crew could not tell me when you were due to return.”
Two
other friars joined them, Padres
Barranza and Salazar. They warmly welcomed Teresa, telling of their
respect and admiration of her husband – and both their parents.
Another
arrival was Corporal Aceves who they both knew from his service at
the presidio
del Monte Rey.
“You must join my wife and children for the evening meal after
Vespers, Don
Jaime. And you also, Doña.”
Although
the corporal had lived on the other side of the hills from Carmel,
Teresa knew his wife and family quite well. The corporal was taking
classes from Mateo to prepare to become a sergeant and possibly an
alférez.
They
stabled their mounts and joined Josefa Aceves and her children for
Vespers. They noted yet another friar and learned he was Padre
José Jimeno, the brother of Padre
Antonio who had left Santa
Cruz
for assignment at Santa
Bárbara. He
generally mirrored his brother, although a bit shorter. Josefa
whispered, “He is not as affable as his brother, but is very
zealous in his missionary duties.”
“Why
are there four friars here?” Teresa asked.
James
shrugged. “I do not know what Father Prefect Sarria thinks of
this.”
“We
have heard that Padre
Gil is going to be transferred soon to San
Luis Obispo.”
James
and Teresa were not surprised as having another friar at that mission
was one of the recommendations they had given the father prefect.
Over
the evening meal, Pablo Aceves told them what he knew of Padre
Gil. “He is, as far as I know, the only Franciscan born in Mexico,
the state of Guanajuato.
He is an excellent médico
and
has saved the lives of several women by helping them deliver using
something called a Caesarean.”
The
thought of someone – even a friar – cutting open their belly to
deliver a baby unnerved both women.
Josefa
waited until the children finished and left the room before leaning
forward to speak to them in a low voice. “We all adore Padre
Luis, but there are rumors...”
“Josefa,
we do not speak of these things!”
She
ignored her husband's stern voice and angry look. “He has great
nervous ability and knows many tongues. He can say the prayers and
conduct the rites in many. He is a man we all love and is often to
easy upon those who err.” She paused and inhaled before adding,
“But, he is said to have acted unseemly with several of the young
girls.”
“Enough!
These are just rumors woman and should never be repeated to
visitors.”
“But,
these are not just any visitors, husband. They have the ear of the
father prefect and perhaps will see fit to pass them on.”
“You
will speak no more, woman!” Pablo jumped to his feet and asked
James and Teresa to come outside with him.
They
walked some distance from the house to a spot under a huge oak not
too far from one of the wells. “I must apologize for my wife. She
is a good woman and I care very much for her. But, she speaks of
things left unsaid.”
“She
speaks of things we have heard before, corporal. He is such a devoted
servant of God that most turn a deaf ear to such rumors,” Teresa
said. “But, there is one no one speaks of.”
Aceves
lowered his eyes and hunched his shoulders. “Yes. Of course. Padre
Olbes.”
They
waited for Pablo to gather his thoughts.
“We
thought a great deal of him. At first. He seemed to truly care for
the disciples and the success of the mission.” Taking in a deep
breath, he continued. “And then he changed. He became angry and
demanded more and more of the disciples, giving them no leeway to
make mistakes. His punishment at first was what all the padres
administer. But, as it continued, he ordered longer terms of
imprisonment and work in the adobe
pits. Instead of spanking as was expected, he sometimes used a whip
and broke skin, causing blood to flow. And he slapped around women
and girls who tried to complain or his treatment.”
“What
happened to him?”
“Well,
James, mi
amigo,
he simply departed on day on one of the ships flying the Mexican
flag. We know not where he went but have heard it was not within
California.”
The
sun has disappeared below the sea and they thanked their host for his
hospitality, hurrying to the stables to bed down for the night.
“Sometimes,
the new fathers they send us from the seminary are not as qualified
as those we have come to love and cherish.”
James
could not argue with his beloved. It had been more than six decades
and most of the original friars were gone. What would any new ones be
like?
