Misión
San Antonio de Padua
1830
– A bright Oasis
“There
is no bell tower, husband.”
That
also surprised James. How did they call the Gentiles to prayers and
Mass?
They
had also expected to see the mission a little over a league before it
came into view after
seeing the
cattle with the mission brand grazing around them.
Unlike
Misión
San Luis Obispo,
Gentiles worked in the fields and gardens, along with several
shepherds watching over flocks of the four-horned sheep. Some
ranchers had begun to complain about allowing sheep to graze the same
land as cattle. Sheep chewed the grass very close to the earth and
had to be frequently moved in order not to overgraze the land.
The
sentry at the gate stood to attention, challenging them as they drew
near. While his uniform was heavily patched and well-worn, it was
clean and worn with pride. As they introduced themselves, a friar
came to the gate and called out a welcome. Both had met Padre
Juan Morena when he had first come to Monte
Rey
and he recognized them. The mayordomo
rushed up and, at Padre
Morena's direction, showed them to the stables, having workers bring
fresh hay for the animals and a huge pile of fresh straw for them.
Once
they had their duties performed, the
friar
proudly
showed
them the mission quadrangle. Beside the chandlery and tanning area,
several large rooms held looms for weaving the wool from the ample
herds, a smithy, a carpentry – the occupant knowing Teresa's father
– and all of the other shops needed to provide everything to
sustain
the mission, along with goods shipped both north and south to the
presidios.
They
had also seen why the chapel did not have a belfry as a single, large
bell, hung on timbers in front of the main entrance.
“When
it came time to establish the mission, it was the only bell left for
here.
We have long waited for another and our
blacksmith, as good as he is, has never been able to cast an adequate
bell to add.” Padre
Morena
went to the sacristy to prepare for prayers, giving them a chance to
view the interior of the chapel.
The
murals on the walls and ceiling took their breath away.
“It
is clearly Padre
Munrás' work,” James observed. “Just as beautiful as what he
painted and supervised at San
Carlos.”
Atop
the statue of San
Miguel
perched just above the crucifix was
un
ojo de la Providencia,
or the All-Seeing Eye of God. The stones of the floor had been
carefully hewn and quite even, the steps leading up to the altar
equally worked with great care. Padre
Munrás'
influence was clear in the choir loft high in the back wall and, well
before Vespers began, two dozen young men softly began to sing sacred
songs they had been taught by the worthy friar.
They
also noted that, unlike other chapels, there were no alcoves to make
it into the form of the cross. Instead, two statues were dedicated to
San
José y Santa Maria.
While
Padre
Morena had his own kitchen and dining area, he preferred to eat his
meals with the disciples in the area provided for the unmarried ones.
The normal fare they had enjoyed to date was beef or pork. So, it was
a surprise when they were served mutton, large chunks swimming in a
tasty broth.
“Wolves
attacked one of the herds,” Padre
Morena explained. “The shepherd was a young boy and had nothing but
his staff and two dogs to try to run them off. We believe they were
desperate to feed their litters and were not satisfied until they had
killed three ewes.” He went on to explain that the boy's cries had
brought others. The wolves managed to carry away two animals but were
forced to leave the third behind. “At least we recovered some of
her wool,” the friar said.
When
asked about the extent of the flocks and herds, they learned the
missions lands stretched a little over five leagues north and south,
nineteen leagues to the east, and all the way to the ocean to the
west, a bit over ten leagues. “We have tried to reach out to the
Gentiles in the large valley to the east without success.”
He
further told them, “"From the mission to the beach, the land
consists almost entirely of mountain ridges. For this reason, it is
not occupied until it reaches the coast where the mission has a house
of adobe
where eight hundred cattle and breeding mares are kept at the rancho
called
San
Simeon.
The land to toward the south is occupied, for the mission there
maintains all its sheep, besides animals for the guards. It is called
Rancho
de Santa Isabel
with a small vineyard. Other mission ranchos
in that direction are San
Antonio,
where barley is planted; Rancho
del Paso de Robles,
where wheat is sown; and Rancho
de la Asunción."
Teresa
muttered something that only James heard. Examining her face, he
decided to repeat it to the friar. “The land is most tempting to
those who wish to expand their own possessions, reverend father.
The
friar's eyes filled with sadness. “Ah yes, my children,
secularization. The direction the government in Mexico wishes to take
us.” He further explained that offers had been made to the
disciples to own their own lands. “Not one of them wished to do so.
As one, they all responded that they did not wish to live without a
priest here to guide their worldly and spiritual life.”
After
a long pause to listen to an especially beautiful tune played by
disciple musicians in the plaza,
he added, “I am afraid that if they go through with this plan, my
children will leave. They have no place to go and no manner in which
to return to what they once were. They will become peones
of the rancheros.”
“It
is what we have heard at every mission on this journey,” James told
the friar.
*****
James
sighed his contentment.
Teresa
giggled, delighted by the soothing heat and moisture.
She
is still as beautiful as when I first saw her unclothed,
James thought.
At
Padre
Morena's urging, they decided to spent an extra day in order to enjoy
the benefits of the steaming mud baths near the mission. A shelter
had been built for the non-Gentiles and the two had gladly accepted.
Away from prying eyes, they had disrobed and, after cleansing
themselves in the heated pools of water, had moved to the pit filled
with bubbling mud.
“I
remember father talking of the time he and Father President Lausén
had enjoyed these same baths.”
“Well,
my love, when we
finish here, I will take our clothes to where the women disciples
wash
theirs. And they should dry quickly.”
“Can
we also lave the animal
blankets and bedding?”
Teresa
saw no reason not to. So, after about a turn of the hour glass, they
washed away the mud and donned fresh clothing. Teresa received lots
of help
from several women at the washing area. Meanwhile, James led the four
animals to a spot downstream and took one at a time into the stream
to wash thoroughly with yucca
root soap. The animals shivered in delight, neighing their pleasure.
A
thorough brushing and each animal was turned loose to graze. James
burst out laughing when the roan rolled over and over in the tall
grass. The other three soon followed. Only
the mule stayed aloof from the others. All
the horses
rose
to feed, their coats shining in the sunlight.
The
break allowed them to attend to the remainder of their gear,
repairing minor tears in leather, applying kneads-foot
oil to smooth and make it supple. It was especially good for their
boots.
“That
animal has been sitting there watching us for a long time, husband.”
James
nodded. He had seen the dog
come out of a stand of manzanita
some distance away. It had shown no threatening signs, simply sitting
with its tongue hanging out in the heat of the day. “It is not a
coyote and does not seem to be a dog like those at the mission.”
Teresa
nodded. “Perhaps it is a cross breed. Part wolf
and part dog.”
They
had discussed whether to eat at the mission or make their own dinner
fire. The question was solved when they spied a buck grazing about a
hundred yards away. Before James could reach for his rifle, Teresa
had hers in hand, aimed, and fired. The buck raised its head and
looked around, appearing to seek what had stung it. His hind quarters
buckled and he dropped to the ground, finally laying its head down.
Teresa quickly reached the animal and with one quick move, slashed
upon its jugular to let the blood flow into the grass.
Meanwhile,
the dog stayed where it had crouched down in the grass, just lifting
its ears and following what the humans did.
It
took but moments to erect a pole upon which to hang the carcass so it
could bleed out and let them open the belly to remove the innards.
Without
thinking, James tossed the liver to the dog that instantly snatched
it up and settled down to eat it.
“You
might be making a friend, husband?”
“Would
that be a bad idea?”
The
gunshot brought the mayordomo
and two disciples. They beamed when Teresa told them she only wanted
part of the deer
and they could have the rest. They also watched as she expertly cut
away the part she wanted, having sliced
the hide without separating it from the full hide.
While
she did that, James established their camp, gathering dry wood and
starting a fire in a stone-lined pit. He pulled the small iron pot
from the pack and filled it with water from the stream, setting it
atop two flat rocks in the edge of the fire. Some wild onions, a few
select grasses, some corn and herbs soon bubbled. A spit was set up
and Teresa soon slid thick slabs of the venison on it to cook in the
fire.
The
dog watched
them, just
out of arm's reach.
Carefully
surveying the area, James realized the site they had picked would be
a good place to spend the night. It was under the wide spreading
limbs of a very old live oak with a thick carpet of leaves to roll
the bedroll over. Plenty of nearby grazing meant their animals would
not stray far.
“And
I think Dog will warn us of any danger.”
“Dog?”
“What
else should I call him?” James asked.
Teresa
responded with a chuckle, turning back to tend to the meal.
The
sweet aroma of roasting venison filled the evening air. They heard
the mission bell calling all to Vespers. Instead of leaving their
camp, the recited the various prayers as their dinner cooked.
It
was ready by the time they softly said, “Amen.
Y gracias al Dios por todos.”
Several
strips of venison were yet to be cooked. Seeing Dog crouched just
beyond the camp, James picked one up and softly whistled. He was
unsure what the animal would do and smiled when it crept closer
on
its belly. When the dog stopped, unable to come nearer, James tossed
the piece of meat and the dog leapt up, grasping it in his jaws. He
settled down and, holding it between his fore-paws, busily gnawed
on it. His tail wagged rapidly in pleasure.
They
bedded down when but half of the dull-gold orb appeared above the
horizon. James rolled himself in the blanket, close to Teresa,
glancing to see what Dog was doing.
A
pair of glowing golden eyes stared back at him, as Dog settled in for
the night just outside the ring of light from the lowering campfire.
*****
“Did
your
father ever tell you why they went this way?”
James
replied, “They were seeking the fastest way to return to the sea so
as not to miss Bahia
Monte Rey”
Dog
had not strayed during the night, staying close to their camp. He
watched carefully, tongue hanging out, as they rose and made their
preparations to depart. He eagerly gulped down the two half-cooked
pieces of venison James tossed his way.
And,
as they rode away, he followed to one side at a distance.
Tule
reeds towered over their heads as they rode alongside the lake in
River San Antonio flowing from the valley ahead of them. Massive
trees grew everywhere, clearly for the reason of the name Valley of
Oaks. Once past the lake, the mission appeared. Wispy clouds
partially covered the hills, even that late in the day.
The
facade with three large arched openings with belfries containing one
large and two tall bells had only recently been completed. They had
both heard the stories of the big bell Reverend Father Serra had so
heartily rung while called for Gentiles to come and hear the word of
the lord.
Disciples
bustled about the pueblo
of
Misión
San Antonio de Padua
performing
chores in preparation for evening prayers and meal. A shepherd
watched over a flock of sheep further up the canyon and a group of
three vaqueros
hunched around a campfire further away where several small herds of
cattle grazed.
The
sentry at the gate into the quadrangle proudly stood in his garrison
uniform. Although there had never been an uprising and no known
bandits were in the area, it was a sign of caring about his duty of
protecting the mission.
A
corporal stepped forward and saluted him with a big grin on his face.
“Don
Jaime. Doña
Teresa. What brings you to our humble mission? And from the south?”
They
dismounted and embraced their old friend, Corporal Castro, from the
Presidio
del Monte Rey.
He led them inside to the stables and chuckled when they refused the
assistance of a young disciple with their animals. He knew full well
of their upbringing to care for their mounts themselves – just as
his fellow leatherjacket soldiers did.
They
finished just as the bell for Vespers rang.
“The
dog is yours?”
Both
had been aware of the animal's presence and were surprised to find it
sitting on its haunches near the stable doors.
“He
seems to have adopted us, friend José.”
The
soldier chuckled upon hearing the story and led them to the chapel.
As they passed the small cemetery, he sadly said, “Our beloved
Padre
Sancho lies there. He passed from this world this past February.”
When asked, he replied that nobody seemed to know, other than he had
been advanced in years. “You know how the friars live. Long hours
and little food. It is, to me, a miracle that any of them are still
with us.” He then muttered, “And it will indeed be tragic when
they are forced to leave.”
The
first thing they saw was the huge wooden arch under the ceiling
painted with gold and stars sprinkled all over it. They also noted
the strange shape of the roof and the statue of the Archangel Michael
high above. And, instead of slits as in most missions, the windows
high in the wall were square, showing the thickness of the adobe.
When
the prayers concluded, Padre
Cabot walked to where they stood alongside the wall and embraced both
after blessing them. “It is good to see you once again, children.
What brings you here?” He then stopped and stammered his apologies.
“You must be tired. And hungry. You can answer my questions later.
Here. Come with me.” With that, he led them through the sacristy
where he removed his robes and along the interior corridor to the
communal dining area. The disciples awaited his arrival and he
quickly gave thanks for the food.
The
friar and corporal, who had forgone dinner with his family to dine
with the guests, listened intently as they explained their journey –
and the reason for it. Neither was surprised at the report of the
various mission and pueblos.
“I
am afraid that la
Purisima
is but an omen of what is to come.”
James
surprised himself by turning to José. “And what of you, old
friend. Your family already has been granted several parcels of lands
and established rancheros.
What do you think of the proposed secularization?”
They
had always known the soldier to be honest and forthright and were not
surprised by his response.
“The
disciples will never be able to maintain the missions or herds as
they are. Those of us Euros
who will be appointed to administer the change will not be fully
qualified to do so and many sad things will come to pass.”
Seeing
their questioning eyes, he said, “The disciples will either waste
away their parcels or simply return to the hills, trying to live as
they did in the past.”
“And
they will not be successful.”
“So
what, José,
will happen?”
“Friend
Jaime, the land will be granted to Califorños
who
will then take in the Gentiles as peones.”
Padre
Cabot said nothing, but it was clear he agreed with the corporal.
There
was still plenty of light and José gave them a quick tour of the
missions grounds – after ensuring the sentry was changed.
The
weaving
room
was most impressive with a dozen looms that produced some beautiful
wool cloth.
“The
mission has always been fruitful from the day Reverend Father Serra
founded it. In addition to good crops of olive turned into oil, we
have extensive vineyards and orchards.” He continued to tell them
they currently
ran about eight thousand head of cattle, ten thousand sheep, several
dozen horses,
mules, and donkeys, along with many swine, goats, chickens, and even
tame ducks.
“Ranchos
San Benito y San Bartolomo del Pleyto
are where we keep sheep and lambs. Ranchos
Los
Ojitos y San Miguelito
are
for the cattle. All are within ten leagues of the mission.”
The
evening musica
was in full swing when they returned to the plaza
and they noticed one elderly disciple sitting on a bench under one of
the huge, spreading oaks. Several children surrounded him, all
smiling and talking among themselves. The
mans
rheumy eyes brightened at
seeing the guests and he managed to make a motion calling them
closer.
“This
is Adam,” José told them.
Teresa
dropped to one knee and took the mans hand gnarled with the years.
“Our
fathers were here when you came
at the calling of the bell by Reverend Father Serra.”
It
took Adam a moment to understand who they spoke of, his toothless
mouth forming a smile. They had to move closer to hear the words he
said, “I will soon be with el
Reverendo Padres, mis
hijas.
They are looking over us.”
The
effort tired the old man who, as a youth, had responded to Reverend
Father Serra's call for the Gentiles to come to hear
The Word of God.
The
one thing they noticed was how several young girls busily swept the
dirt of the plaza.
They did not have to be told it
was due to the red, stinging ants that seemed everywhere they
stepped.
“Will
we be okay to sleep in the hay in the stables?” James asked.
José
responded that the small water channels completely surrounded the
mission interior and breaches were quickly repaired. “The chickens
do a good job of keeping them at bay inside the quadrangle.”
Later,
in their bedroll, Teresa asked, “What do we do, husband. Take the
trail through the mountains to Carmel or continue on
el
Camino Real
to Misión
Soledad?”
James
thought for a moment, reviewing one of his father's maps in his mind.
“If we continue to Misión
Soledad,
we can visit Ranchos
Buena Vista y Llano de Buena Vista.”
That's
what they decided to do, both smiling at the figure of Dog curled up
at the stable entrance.
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