Mission San Francisco Solano
June
1830 – The Last Outpost and Home Again
“How
do we reach Misión
San Francisco Solano
from here?”
“You
will need a guide,” Padre
Amoros told James early the next morning. “The father prefects were
not pleased about establishing it so none of the governors ever
assigned soldiers and sappers to build a highway.”
He
also explained that most travelers reached
it
by water.
One
of Sergeant Pacheco's missions was to find an overland route between
the two so they gladly accepted the services of an Inland Miwok who
was from the valley his people called Nappan.
The
trail showed some signs of use,
widened and cleared by the passage of hooves.
The streams had to be forded. Luckily most were slow-flowing and
shallow. The biggest obstacles were the salt marshes and la
cíenagas.
The trail often wended
through reeds towering higher than the tip of Pacheco's lance. Birds
broke from hidden nests at their approach, often
darkening the sky.
A
vast body of water barred their way by mid-morning and their guide
explained it was impossible to cross with their animals. He pointed
northward, the direction the trail appeared to be taking.
“He
says we Spaniards – we are still not Mexicans to him – call the
river Petaluma from the words péta
lúuma, the
local words for this area.”
They
found a ford and easily crossed the slow flowing river, riding almost
due east toward some low hills. The trail led through a small pass,
revealing a large valley with another snaking river lush with
grasses. They could see small herds of livestock grazing from a
distance, guessing they belonged to the mission. The white stucco
walls and red tile roof of the mission provided stark contrast to the
greens and browns on the surrounding land, especially the thick trees
growing along the river.
As
they were in view of their goal, the disciple simply spun
on his heels
and loped back the way he had come.
“It
is clear this mission was not planned by the friars under the
direction of the father prefect.”
James
nodded. “There was a great deal of scandal about this,” James
told Romaldo. Padre
Altamira went ahead with it without the approval of the father
prefect. Or the governor. By the time he was told not to do so, it
had already been started.”
“And
nobody ever provided assistance to the padre
while he worked on it,” Teresa added. “It was only after he had
baptized a number of Gentiles that it was decided to go ahead with it
as an Asistencia.”
“The
father prefect relented and sent Padre
Fortuny to assist and take religious supplies to fully stock the
chapel. He and Padre
Altamira finished the chapel and, with the help of the escolta
that accompanied Padre
Fortuny,
built
the quadrangle.”
“Is
that is why it it so small?”
James
shrugged. “I was not told. I have heard they were quite successful
in gathering a goodly number of Gentiles.” He then lifted his
sombrero
and wiped his brow, not due to the heat or the sun but to find the
right words. “There came a time when Padre
Altamira's temper was
so bad that the
disciples
could
no longer accept his cruel treatment. They attacked the mission,
looted the chapel, burning the buildings and supplies before forcing
the friar to flee to Misión
San Rafael.”
“What
happened to Padre
Fortuny?” Romaldo asked.
“The
disciples, knowing of the planned attack, told him of a very sick
child in a distant rancheria
so that he would not be present. After the attack, they sheltered him
until soldiers arrived from San
Rafael.”
They
reached the mission gates and the sentry saluted Sergeant Pacheco,
calling out to the corporal of the guard. Within a few moments, the
thin figure of a man clad in the gray robe of a Franciscan friar
walked towards them. The years wore heavily upon his shoulders and
the visitors wondered how he was able to go about the strenuous
missionary duties of his calling.
“So
you are the First Borns,” he said after blessing them and
introducing himself as Padre
Fortuny. “What brings you to this far northern outpost of the
church?”
He
listened as they explained their mission, also introducing Sergeant
Pacheco and his orders. “Well, I had my hopes up that my next
visitors would be another brother to replace me. I will not stay here
much longer.”
“Why
is that, reverend father?' Romaldo asked.
The
friar's eyes twinkled in amusement although his words were serious.
“When the order came to swear allegiance to the new government of
Mexico, I refused to do so as my oath of loyalty is, first and
foremost, to the church and then His Catholic Majesty, the king of
Spain.”
“Well,
reverend father, it may be some time until someone comes to replace
you. The apostolic college is being called upon to replace those in
Mexico like you who were forced to depart eight years ago. It is not
an easy task.”
The
friar sighed. “Well, The Lord in His wisdom sees fit to move in His
mysterious ways. I must learn to be patient and accept His will.”
As
the friar led them into the chapel, James noticed something strange
about its construction. Instead of the usual thick walls of
sun-dried bricks, they were thin.
“We
rebuilt this out of wood as we do not produce a lot of adobe.
What we had has gone to building
padizadas
for the escolta.
One was also built to hold we friars.”
They
had already seen the vineyards, orchards, and fields for the Three
Sisters.
They
retired to the plaza
after evening prayers and a meal in the communal area. The local
Gentiles proved to be quite adept at the music taught them by Padre
Fortuny,
to include several playing Spanish – now Mexican – instruments.
Much
to their surprise, the San
Carlos
was not moored at the mouth of Petaluma Creek. A stone cairn signaled
a message that explained that the yawl captained by the American
Robinson had come with a summons for them to return to Misión
San Francisco Asis.
It indicated the sloop would return as soon as possible.
That
provided an opportunity for them to join Sergeant Pacheco search
for
a site suitable for a garrison. It did not take long to determine
that a site next to the mission was the only suitable place for it.
It had the mission's irrigation system for water needed by soldiers
and their animals and the mission would provide food and the services
to support a garrison.
Although
Sergeant Pacheco was semi-literate, able only to read the
military-related documents his position required, he proved to be
exceptionally good at diagrams and land features.
“The
main problem will be improving the road between here and the mouth of
the creek where boats must land.”
James
agreed.
*****
A
Miwok came running into the mission compound three days later,
passing the
news without showing a bit of exertion from his run from the mouth of
Petaluma Creek. “A big log with clouds and people riding on it
is at the mouth of the creek. They say I come here tell you.”
They
thanked him and one of the disciples took him away to eat and refresh
himself.
James,
Teresa, and the sergeant quickly prepared their animals to depart,
gladly accepting Padre
Fortuny's blessings. Romaldo took the opportunity to
note
places during their ride that would need improvements if, in fact,
the presidio
was to be built in the area of the mission.
The
ship lying at the mouth of the creek appeared as they rode over the
pass. All three boats were ashore and they made out the figure of a
friar wearing his gray robes and traditional flat-brimmed hat.
“Padre
Fortuny
will be most pleased to see another friar. Perhaps now he can retire
as he wishes.”
James
nodded at Teresa's words, all the while wondering how a friar was
being assigned to the mission that had never received a great deal of
official backing.
James
quickly withdrew the rifle from the holster next to the saddle, his
movement copied by Teresa. Sergeant Pacheco also drew his inferior
musket, hoping he would no need to use it as he had almost no powder
or ball.
“Do
not fire, husband. She is just trying to defend her cubs. If we halt,
she and they will go on their way.”
James
agreed.
The
huge grizzled bear grunted her displeasure and made demanding noises
to her two cubs, leading them into the marshland to the south.
Pedro
warmly welcomed them, explaining he had returned to Misión
Dolores
to take supplies to Misión
San
Rafael
and bring the new friar to Solano.
The crew had also unloaded two
bags of supplies. “We have no way to board your animals, mi
capitan.
So, my thought is to let the reverend father take them back to the
mission. We can easily board your saddles and packs. You, of course,
have plenty of animals back home.”
They
readily agreed, even Sergeant Pacheco indicating he had no problem
turning his mounts
over to the mission.
“And
how am I to lead five animals?” the friar grumbled. “My vows tell
me I must walk or only ride a donkey.”
“Pedro
Gutierrez, the Gentile
over there will gladly lead the mounts. He can also show you the way
to the mission.”
The
friar was not all that pleased but had no other choice.
Later,
aboard the San
Carlos,
James asked, “What know you of the friar? He does not appear to be
a very cheerful individual.”
“He
is another of the new friars schooled in Mexico. He grumbles about
the pure blood of his family and made it clear he had no respect for
me or the crew as we are Esselen.”
“He
will certainly not last long at Solano,”
Teresa responded. “I wonder why the father prefect sent him and not
another he knows could do the job.”
That
left them silent. The father prefect probably had reason for his
choice that they were not and probably never would be privy to.
Sergeant
Pacheco left the sloop at the quay fronting the presidio.
The sun stood high in the sky and would not set for at least six
hours so Pedro decided to sail for Carmel. “It will be a full moon
tonight and I see no reason why we cannot sail with its light.”
James
agreed so the lines were loosed and the crew quickly set the sails.
Once
the burnished orb sank beneath the gentle waves, silver light flashed
upon the undulation of the sea. Dark silhouettes told of hills and
flats to the east, an occasional faint light indicating human
habitations. Frequent
flashes of flying fish caught their eyes and they smiled at the pod
of dolphins riding their bow waves.
“Land
ho, captain. The lights indicate it to be Monte
Rey”
Pedro
and James both agreed, the separation between the town and the fort
an identifying mark. They reached the outer buoy and Pedro expertly
turned the sloop landward, followed
the familiar markers to the long wooden quay leading to their mooring
spot. Anchors fore and aft dropped into the sand, securing the sloop.
Happy
helping hands greeted their arrival, children and grand children
grabbing up saddles and packs, running ahead to the compound.
“It
is so good to be home, mi
marido.”
James
could not agree more. Their land was beautiful and they had seen and
encountered many interesting things. Even the dark prophecies of the
future could not dampen their pleasure at their home, the territory
of California.
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