A Chumash Village
1830
– Return to The Sea
El
Camino Real
passed directly in front of the mission and they entered it,
riding west at a gentle gait. Two couriers had departed on their way
to Misión
San Buenaventura
just ahead of them and were already far out of sight, the dust from
their animals' hooves not yet settled.
A
grassy
plain stretched south beyond their vision with just a thin line of
hills in the distance. More rugged hills rose to the right with hints
of mountains behind them. Lush grass provided grazing for European
and local animals although cattle and animals far outnumbered the
local ones. Encinos
y robles
grew everywhere, massive
oaks clearly
there since the beginning of time. Great wings soared far overhead,
the ever-present cóndores
seeking dead animals – or even very young ones – to feed upon.
While Chumash told tales of their viciousness, James and Teresa
looked upon them as creatures that kept the balance of nature. Not
far from where they rode, a bandada
de cuervos chattered
and nervously perched on tree limbs, a clear sign of their anger at
the huge condors overhead. The ravens too were part of nature and
they often saw los
Indios
wearing their feathers – even though those of the condors were more
highly prized.
Teresa's
horse nickered, her hide anxiously shivering. “To the left,” she
alerted her husband.
A
huge grizzled bear sow
proved the source of the animal's concern,; she and her two cubs
hungrily tearing at a steer carcass. She looked up, her jaws covered
in blood, and uttered a low, fearsome growl. Seeing the creatures
presented no danger to she or her cubs, she returned to her feast.
James
and Teresa returned their rifles to their sheaths. Some Californios
killed such beasts on sight, often torturing the cubs for the humor
they received from their squeals and sounds of agony. Only when they
tired would the torturers turn to leave the dying creatures to the
condors and other scavengers.
The
road led them to hills and
gently wound upwards to a wide opening leading into a small valley.
Oaks of both kinds covered the hills and flowers carpeted the ground
on both sides of them.
“There
is happiness in the air, mi
marido.”
“I
sense it too, mi
amor.
It is peaceful here as if some
find spirits to ease their souls.”
Both
crossed themselves, shamed for thinking such unchristian-like
thoughts. As part of their upbringing, their parents had told them
stories and myths of their Indian ancestors and told them to listen
to those of the people they came to knew. More than a few hours had
been spent sitting in front of a fire hearing the Esselen elders
telling the stories they had heard from their elders. They often
looked at one another, wondering how some of those stories seemed to
come from the Holy Bible. How many told of a small group of
forefathers finding succor from floods by building a large boat to
ride it out?
The
valley widened as a stream flowed in from the hills to the north and
wound its way west. Once again, they saw slight signs of neglect as
certain bridges washed out by heavy rains had only hastily been
prepared.
Pillars
of smoke rose into the calm sky to the south, a sign of an Indian
rancheria.
They knew it was Chumash territory but had seen few signs of them up
to that point. Then, Teresa pointed to the top of a hill to their
left.
Three
men stood there. Wearing nothing but tattoos and paint, with
feathers in their hair. They
carried bows and arrows and
presented no danger at that distance.
“Wild
Chumash,” James opined. “Living far from the missions and our
presence.”
“I
wonder how long they will stay so, my husband. Surely they hunt the
cattle roaming this area. If so, that means they will come in
conflict with the vaqueros.”
A
small stream provided a convenient spot to share their midday meal.
Teresa drew water while James gathered dry wood for a small fire.
Their small iron pot was soon filled with boiling stew made from
foods they had brought in the packs.
“We
have a visitor.”
James
struggled not to react. He reddened at not noticing the arrival of
the Indian dressed in a mixture of mission clothes and heavy paint.
The visitor only held a slender shaft with a sharpened end, hardened
in fire.
“You
travel far, strangers. And are not of the soldiers who ride by apace
on their important duties.”
“No.
We
travel to view
this land and visit those places important to our king.”
“You
are well prepared to fend off bandidos,”
the Indian said.
“Are
we going to be in
need of them in the near future?”
The
Indian's
stoic features barely changed, just offering a faint smile. “That
will be determined by your vigilance, Señor.
There may be those not far from here who would take from strangers
what they wish.”
James
pointed to the pot and told the man he was welcome to join them for
their repast.
“I
thank you Señor
y Señora,
but my woman waits not far away with a meal for me
and my
family. I just came to warn you of what you might encounter not far
from here.”
They
started to thank him, but as quickly as he had come, he disappeared
into the chaparral.
Before
dousing the smokeless fire, they carefully checked their weapons,
ensuring the pistols and rifles had fresh percussion caps and ball.
Their knives and other bladed weapons were honed to fine points and
all sheaths and holsters had been lightly oiled to permit quick
withdrawal.
If
bandits had awaited
them, they did not appear during the remainder of that
day’s
journey.
They
barely reached the western end of the valley when
a large group of adobe
buildings appeared before them. “That must be Rancho
Simi,”
Teresa said.
They
had learned of its presence from the friars at Misión
San Fernando.
That had included the full name of
Rancho
San José de Nuestra Senora de Altagarcia y Simi,
the latter word from the Chumash name of the village, Shimiji,
where they
had lived for unknown time before the arrival of the Europos.
An
older man came
out to greet them, a woman standing in the doorway of the substantial
main house. “I am Francisco Javier Pico,” he proudly stated.
“And
I am James Gaspar Beadle. This is my wife, Teresa Marta. We travel to
become re-acquainted with the state where we were born.”
The
man's eyes widened. “You are the children of el
Marinero y el Carpintero?”
He called out for a servant to come for their animals and did not
seem nonplussed when James informed him
they preferred to care for the animals themselves. They dropped the
reins, knowing the animals would go no further than the watering
trough and grazing on the grass nearby.
They
spent an interesting evening at the rancho
where they were joined by Patricio and Miguel and their wives for the
evening meal. Most of the talk was of how rich the land was and how
perfect it was for grazing livestock.
“It
is such a shame that los
Indios
waste it. We all know that without the stern hands of the fathers,
they would return to their old days of grubbing for gophers and
moles.”
James
felt Teresa tighten up in anger and gritted his teeth, waiting for an
outburst. Instead, she sweetly said, “And we all know how well you
take care of this land and allow the ignorant savages to subsist on
your generosity.”
None
of their hosts seemed to be aware of her sarcasm as the talk
continued in
the same theme.
As
quickly as possible without insulting their hosts, James and Teresa
made their way to the stables where they ensured the animals had feed
and water and settled into their bedrolls. She understood the hug and
kiss he gave her, snuggling closer.
They
were well aware of another land grant, Rancho
el Conejo,
to the south of the highway, but decided to bypass it. They knew that
Governor Argüello had granted it to José Polanco and Ygnacio
Rodriguez, two soldiers of el
Presidio del Santa Bárbara.
While Rodriguez did his best to care for the land, Polanco wasted his
time and let the land go to ruin. For that reason, Governor de
Solá
in 1805, granted Polanco's
claim to Captain José de
la
Guerra y
Noriega.
They did not remember Rodriguez and were told the captain would be at
the presidio.
Breezes
brought them the salty smell of ocean long before it appeared before
them. The highway followed the base of the hills and they soon came
in sight of Misión
San Buenaventura.
A sizable Chumash village stood nearby and they knew it to be called
Mitsquanaqa'n
by
those who lived there. Their parents had also told them of the story
of the chieftain of old who supervised the building of wooden boats
24 lengths of a foot long. They had also heard of how numerous the
Chumash in the area were and how friendly they had been to the
expedition.
“The
river provides excellent irrigation, mi
carida.”
Teresa
smiled. She pointed out the gardens and orchards alongside the river
which provided fruits and vegetables that grew nowhere else in the
territory.
The
padre
had clearly been informed by one of the soldiers of their nearing the
mission entrance as he came out to greet them. “James! Teresa
Marta! It is so good to see you once again. How are your dear
parents?”
Both
dismounted and dropped to their knees in front of Padre
Francisco Suner who they had known at Misión
San Carlos.
“They are doing quite well, honored father.”
Another
friar came out to join them and Padre
Suner
introduced him as Padre
Francisco Uria.
“Ah,
the mischievous imps Padre
Francisco has told me about.” The stout friar's face had broken
into a wide grin and the two knew he was being jocular, something he
was well-known for.
“And
what is it we hear that you place three small piglets in a bag of
fruits you traded a ship's captain for. And they got loose aboard the
ship and caused some degree of disharmony.”
The
friar laughed, his belly shaking in time with his mirth.
Many
stories circulated throughout the missions about the friar,
indicating his language at times was somewhat coarse but that he was
kind-hearted and the disciples adored him. He was also known to have
a quick temper although it never caused him to lay a hand upon
anyone.
The
friars followed them to the stables and asked questions of their trip
to that point whole the two disencumbered the animals, curried them,
and ensured they had food and water. Padre
Suner read the missive from the father prefect and his face turned
sad. “Ah yes, the governor's plan to secularize the missions. It
will be a disaster. The end to all we have toiled for these many
years.”
“And
those to suffer most will be the disciples,” Padre
Uria added.
The
tour of the mission showed the visitors just how much had been
accomplished Every shop was busy turning out goods for the mission,
the presidio,
and visiting ships. Some of the finest leather they had seen to that
point hung on beams and the leathercrafter's handiwork was
breathtaking. Some pieces had the most beautiful carvings they had
seen.
“Only
your father's carvings are superior to this, Teresa Marta. Fernando
has studied every piece your father did for us and struggles to match
their perfection. I am certain he will be most honored to meet you.”
The
friar learned from the mayordomo
that the leathercrafter had gone to his home village for several days
to attend an important family ritual.
The
gardens and orchards outdid anything they had seen up to that point
in their journey. Apples, pears, plums, figs, oranges, grapes,
peaches, pomegranates, plantain, bananas, coconuts, sugar cane,
indigo as well as all sorts of vegetables and herbs were grown. Padre
Uria urged
them try some figs and beamed as they savored the taste new to them.
Teresa recognized most of the herbs, gladly accepting Padre
Uria's
offer to pick some for their traveling packs. She also noted some
onions that appeared to be a combination of those that grew wild all
throughout the territory and mixed with European varieties. They
golden ones were quite large and Padre
Uria proudly told them of how he had grafted several species to bring
them forth.
And
flowers. Flowers grew everywhere. Not just in the friar's garden, the
central plaza
of the mission, but in the outer gardens and even in the rancheria.
Reds, golds, whites, blues, purples, and lilac. More colors than
they had ever seen in
one place.
Bells
rang for Vespers and the friars excused themselves to prepare while
one of the disciples named Pedro led them to a pew at the front of
the church. Those already there stared in awe at the visitors, word
having spread quickly of who they were. That James was a Mestizo
and Teresa an India
was known to all. And, that they were considered to be important
persons was a matter of great pride to every one of them.
Pedro
led them to the community dining area after Vespers where they
enjoyed a filling meal, telling the friars and others nearby of their
trip to date. Once they filled themselves, while everyone else went
to the plaza
to enjoy the evening's musica,
Padre
Uria led them to the friar's garden, biding them be seated on a
wooden bench. At that point, three disciples entered, all clearly
Chumash.
The
eldest named Antonio was introduced as a senior boat maker who had
been there when the Portolá expedition came through.
The
woman's name was Josefa Maria and was introduced as a tribal judge
for her knowledge of their customs, history, and lore.
Francisco
Jesus had recently been elected as alcalde
of Mitsquanaqa'n,
the Chumash pueblo.
“It
is a very bad idea what the big chief wants to do,” Antonio said in
a voice almost too low to hear. “He cannot take our fathers
from us. They heal our spirits and give us the words of wisdom we
must have to live by.”
“My
of your sun cycles ago,” Josefa Maria added, “one of our most
powerful healers spoke of a day when those would come to show us a
new, better way of life. He told us that as long as they were there
to guide us, we would prosper and be happy.”
Nobody
said anything for several minutes. James and Teresa listened to song
birds in the trees and amidst the grape vines. Music from the plaza
came to them.
“Padre
Uria write letter for me as I not understand your writings where I
told your governor my people not ready and cannot do things the
fathers show us without their leading. There be no manner which we
return to our lives of old.” Francisco Jesus looked at his feet
before adding, “We no live good without fathers.”
“And,
we know governor seek give more land to Califorños,
that belong to mission,” Josefa Maria added with a furrowed brow.
“They not same as padres
and no care for we Ineseño.”
That
was the first time James and Teresa knew what the Chumash called
themselves.
The
three were very detailed in explaining their opposition to the plan
to give them control of the missions and only when a disciple came to
light the lamps in the garden did they realize the hour.
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